Dear Italy....

Before I moved here, I thought this was information everybody had. But.... apparently not. As a good samaritan I feel duty-bound to share these truisms with my Abruzzesse brethren. Perhaps they were on vacation or sleeping when the news came in.


1- Sidewalks are a great little invention that provide a SEPARATE path for pedestrians. They are really handy when walking with strollers or for 90 year old ladies totting huge grocery bags between meals. You should really insist that the government put some in and stop using cars to control population explosions.

2 - 4 years old is too old for a bottle. They are not babies, they are children. Stop coddling!

3 - They will not kick your child out of school if she/he is not wearing Gucci or Burberry....even if that was a rule, they wouldn't enforce it because they are Italian.

4 "Mother" is not synonymous with the word "slave". After a certain point, say 25, she should not be cooking for you, cleaning your room and doing your laundry on a daily basis.....all the while she is watching your children!

5- You have to elect one activity: driving or parking. They cannot be done in the same place. It does not work.

6- Neither cookies nor Nutella are a nutritional breakfast.

7- Yes, Italian food is wonderful. But, and I know this may come as a surprise, they have food in other countries too. Try it sometime. (This goes for language, wine, clothing designers, and other cultural events).

8- Sometimes, and I can't believe I am saying this, rules are good. They are what help a 5 minute process, not turn into a 5 hour process. Now I know why you all drink so much coffee!

9- The internet works. Maybe we can use it to order food from other countries (see No. 7)

10 - Your children will not die if they are out in the cold for 30 seconds. This is Roseto, not Siberia.

11- Hours worked in a day is calculated by time actually producing, not drinking coffee, going home for a three hour lunch, napping, or talking with your friends in front of your store.

12- Olive oil is not a food group.

These are only the basics. But, we have to start somewhere.

Readers who have been here, done that, please feel free to add more lessons learned.

Fall Foliage on All-Saints Day

Today I am driving through Molise, which is a region of Italy about an hour south of Rome, Its capital is Campobasso, a town of about 65,000 inhabitants. Much like Abruzzo this is not one of the most populous regions; rather it is sprinkled with many small towns nestled on cliffs thousands of feet above the Autostrada. As I drive down a curvy two lane road, I am reminded how much natural beauty covers this country. Almost instantaneously we slipped from summer into a breathtaking fall season. Being from California, I have seldom experienced such a distinct passage of the seasons and I say with conviction that transitioning from summer into fall is the most drastic, both emotionally and environmentally. I use the word emotionally because it is a palatable feeling how the bustle of summer fades quietly into the solitude of winter. No more backyard BBQs, crowded beaches, chaotic day-long playdates with screaming kids, or traffic-jammed summer road trips. And, although October is still a ways from Christmas, I am already thinking about passing the dark hours indoors with my family or a good book. This time of year the meals I prepare are more elaborate and calorie rich, and the converations I have are with dear friends about issues that need time. The house constantly smells of cider, or hot chocolate and I only tolerate the softest clothes to warm my body from the cold air lurking outside. In short, my state of mind changes and I am a different person in November than I was in August. 

Like me, the land around me is in transformation. Just last week my drive to Teramo did not reveal a glimpse of snow on the peaks of Gran Sasso National Park, our local mountain range. And now the mountains appear to be full of snow, taunting me to shape up and hit the slopes. It was only a matter of days ago that the trees were full and green, now they turn golden before my eyes. The leaves give way with the smallest hint of a breeze and they are beginning to scuttle along the sidewalks keeping my company as I do my grocery shopping. Much to my surprise, even the grapevines turn yellow, orange and red - all simultaneously. 

In Molise, the trees are more akin to the East Coast of the U.S., with a lot of Oaks and other trees that are familiar to me. The peaks of the hills are exposed rock and steep, much different than the rolling green hills that make up Abruzzo. I surmise that the climate here is less humid than Abruzzo and therefore there is much less agriculture breaking up the natural landscape. I will say that the terrain reminds me more of the U.S. than Abruzzo, but its still a far cry from California. 

Today, All-Saints Day in Italy, is a day reserved for remembering and visiting the dead. In fact, the cemeteries are full and every tomb, even those dating back to the 1800s seem to have fresh flowers placed on them. It was a perfect day to get out of the ordinary routine and go out simply to observe and reflect. This season is one that naturally lends itself to that and I am thankful that I can ponder life and death in such a beautiful setting. 

An Insightful Rant By A Scorned Patient. What's Wrong With The Medical System in Abruzzo?

Usually I try to keep my writings positive, but some things just need to be aired. Lets chat about the utter lack in efficiency in some italian public service sectors. I am infuriated by the joke of a medical system here in Abruzzo, ASL. This article is not meant to attack the socialized aspects of the medical system,  which is something I vigorously applaud. But, its rather a look at the logistical nightmare that is medical care in Italy. 

Here, we have a nationalized medical system which is, in theory, inter-connected not just with all of Italy but all of Europe. But each region runs its own medical program starting with each municipality dividing its residents up amongst a list of general practitioner doctors ("GP") in their respective municipalities. Its relatively easy to get in touch with your GP; and like America's HMO's the GP is your gateway doctor. If you want the medical system to cover your test costs - and I use the term cover very loosely - you have to start with your GP and get a paper prescription for a specialist, test, or prescription. Here's where the nightmare begins. When you go to the next step you hit major roadblocks and confusion. For the sake of time and clarity I will list the major issues:

1) You must carry your own medical records from one appointment to the next. They have NO centralized or electronic medical sharing here. NONE!

2) Depending on the urgency, you could wait months or more to get into a simple test appointment.  In September, they wanted to book my appointment for February 2011! And, I have heard worse stories. 

3) Even if you want to stay in the nationalized system, you still have to pay an admission ticket at the hospital every time you do a test or see a specialist. So, in fact you pay twice. First through a boatload of taxes, then again for your individual care. 

4) You pay even more if you want to avoid the confusion and go "private" which basically means you pay a pubic doctor for his private time. 

Now, I will say that their private payments are nothing compared to what a U.S. uninsured person would pay. And, I love the fact that I can pop into virtually any specialist and pay 80 Euro for a consultation. But, I have had to undergo comprehensive allergy testing and it has taken approximately 3 months so far, and I am not done yet. Its always "go to this hospital, do a consult, go to another hospital take 2 test, but then another location and take a blood test on yet a different day." Its not uncommon to get misinformation at one appointment so you are unprepared for the next. There seems to be little to no dialogue between offices or even between the hospitals administration and the practitioners.

During this process that has become not a bad chapter in my week, but a bad chapter in my year because it takes so long, I have had to play russian roulette every time I eat something during this five month long period. And, don't forget I am lugging my records from one place to the next because they don't transfer them internally. I can only imagine what it it takes for someone who is really sick. I will admit that if you have a grave emergency things go on the fast track, but how many people have tumors growing inside them as they wait for stupid little screening tests to be completed before they realize its something more serious. 

For me it almost always comes back to efficiency; what is the damage to the Italian economy for such inefficiencies? When people have jobs, and need to miss work 11 times over 6 months just for testing, there has got to be a large economic cost to their employer in the way of lost productivity. Then, you consider the lost productivity of someone not feeling well during that entire diagnosis period. Even if they are jobless, they are surely not hunting down a job when they are in this long drawn out holding position. And, the same goes for a lot of things. We end up waiting at the post office for 20 minutes only to get useless information at the front of the line and have to return another day. Or, I am constantly told to come back another day at a store or service point because they are too busy or about to close, etc. What is the deal with never wanting to push through and complete a transaction? 

If you want further information on the economic impact of this (please note how totally ecstatic I am that I actually have time to look up stuff like this solely because I want to!) Italy ranks higher than most in GDP per person working, but still lower than the US. They did, however outrank UK and Germany in this respect, which was a personal shock to me. (See pages 35-36 for some country-by-country statistics on GDP and productivity. (http://www.bls.gov/opub/mlr/1999/07/art3full.pdf). or see Eurostat website, an EU agency that tracks European statistics on a country and regional basis. (http://epp.eurostat.ec.europa.eu/portal/page/portal/statistics/themes) 

Someone asked me the other day if the experiences I am having are unique to my region, as in maybe I am living in the Italian equivalent to Mississippi, which by all accounts is not the crown jewel of our United States. When I go on the attack, I must remind myself that I am living in one town, in one of twenty regions in a relatively large country of 60 million people. After doing some of the statistical research on Italy, as referenced above, I have to conclude this inefficiency or lack of desire to complete a transaction must be a regional issue and is not the plight of the entire country. The statistics do not lend themselves to a conclusion that Italians as a whole are not productive. 

And, as I am often reminded by those in my Italian family, Italy is a very young republic which explains the difference in the regions and the lack of logistical co-ordination of so-called national services. Italy, as a constitutional republic has only been around since 1946. Before that it was comprised of several nation-states that were unified between 1815-1870, still much later than the United States unification with the original colonies. 

No matter whether this is a regional problem or a national problem, I am demanding change. Italian, like most Europeans, pay a ton of taxes, approximately 50% of their earnings and 20% sales tax. Supposedly, this is to pay for the medical services, schools, and other essential public services. However, we end up paying point-of-service for medical as well. And, according to those I have talked to its not cheap. Tests run anywhere from 100E to 200E, plus patients pay an admission tickets, drug costs, and for specialist visits. It seems a little bit like double taxation since its all going to the government. Same goes for the toll roads or "autostrada" and other supposedly socialized services. And, the schools, while they may provide a great education, are hosted in decrepit outdated buildings which are not up to par with technology or even a designated parking lot.  I am 100% in support of pooling our tax money to provide services, but I must ask where is this money going in our area? Italy is ranked the 18th most developed country in the world, but it seems a long cry from my home in California. 

I am told that in the north things are a lot faster, cleaner, and modernized. Of course, they also have more stress so there is always a trade-off. But, I must admit that I am at the end of my wits the way things move so slowly here. Why can't I sign the inscription form and pay when my daughter starts her first ballet lesson. Why do shop owners repeatedly offer to call when something comes in, and I have yet to receive one call when that happens. Why is it always pushed off for a later time? And, when it comes to something as important as medical care, there is no room to be lazy or disorganized. We must start demanding better and take nothing less. In the end, only the squeaky wheel gets the grease. 

ADAPTATION?

Its been little over three months since my permanent move to Abruzzo, Italy and I am surprised at how quickly I have adapted my habits and expectations to my new environment. During previous long-term stays in Europe my acceptance of "off-habits" did not come so easily, probably due to some subconscious awareness that I could soon desert those cultural norms in favor of my home culture.

When I first arrived, I was thoroughly irked that I had to drink my coffee in less than 2 minutes, all the while standing at the bar elbow-to-elbow with all kinds of strangers. And, don't even get me started about the driving here! I thought I was going die the first couple of weeks I spent in a car here (most likely by attack since I wanted to scream at people who seemed to have a death wish by driving on the wrong side of the road).

I'll admit there was some serious resistance to the reintroduction of simple carbs back into my diet and to say I didn't look down my nose at those who drowned their food in olive oil, would be a flat out lie. But, now I eat pasta AT LEAST once a day, and most of the time its floating in olive oil. I like it and have stopped my criticism since my cholesterol and pant size seems to be in-check. I have also begun to reciprocate the once annoying 3x repetition of "ciao, ciao, ciao" and the well-wishing of every miniscule activity "good sunday" "good lunch" "good work"??? At least they are polite..

This new level of comfort dawned on me yesterday when I darted into a bar in between a doctor's appointment and a run to the store. I parked my chest at the bar and ordered a "caffe normale". **Yes, I still need to add the normale because when they hear my american accent they assume I want a caffe americano if I just say caffe***I sipped it down in about 30 seconds, paid and was on my way. Not once during this entire transaction did I silently curse the lack of to-go cups or a proper spot to sit. I was actually glad that I could fit in a caffeine fix. This is progress!

Then, today my suspicion that I was slowly adapting and assimilating was officially confirmed. Parking is hard to come by in this city once the summer starts. I darted against oncoming traffic when I saw a spot on the other side of the street. Just to make a u-turn is a logistical nightmare here and I was stoked to find a spot at all so I didn't even hesitate to play chicken with the approaching Mercedes E Class (which definitely outweighs my car by a long shot). I parked facing the wrong way, quite illegally I might add, and was able to run in to get my errand accomplished. Who cares about the brush with death compared to spending 20 more minutes circling decrepit one-way streets which were designed for hot-wheels sized cars.

Of course there are a few adaptations I have yet to make and maybe I will never make. I am still a firm believer in bagels and keeping a variety of ethnic foods at your finger-tips. I still think that closing your store all morning on Monday for your "weekly rest" after you just were closed all day on Sunday is absolutely stupid and downright lazy and I really would love to see people stop throwing their cigarette butts on the ground right next to an ash tray.

Who knows, maybe in a couple more months I'll be drinking Grappa and eating Mazzarella. (Yuck!)

ROSETO DEGLI ABRUZZI PREPARES FOR SUMMER

Abruzzo, Italy

On February 17, 2010 I stepped off the airplane in Roma with my one-year visa, my Italian husband and daughter and overweighted bags in tow. We have come to stay; to break away from the endless money chase which defined our life in Huntington Beach, CA.

After a two-and-a-half hour drive east from Rome, straight through the mountains, we arrive at Roseto degli Abruzzi on the Adriatic Sea Coast. Roseto is a beach town in the province of Teramo, in the region of Abruzzo. This town emerged many, many moons ago as a fishing village. The region of Abruzzo can be described as the road less traveled in Italy, so far as Americans are concerned. But this region gets its share of tourists from Italy, Germany and England. This entire region is made up predominately of sea-side towns of no more than 20,000 inhabitants and the largest city, Pescara, hovers right around 120,000.

Contrary to most people’s beliefs, Abruzzo gets cold in the winter and even has snow and skiing in the higher altitudes. But make no mistake this is an area that lives and dies by the summer months. The population more than doubles between the months of June and September and more than half of business’s revenues are generated in these three short months.

In the springtime this area is absolutely beautiful and not yet full of the tourists that flock to Italy’s east coast in the summer months. The rolling hills visible from the beach are checkered with wheat fields that are still deep green from the winter’s rain and are broken-up only by orderly rows of ancient olive trees. Above our tightly-packed beach town is the outline of a 300-year-old village of Montepagano, which still has about 800 inhabitants and tiny little roads carved out before cars necessitated more space.

As I walk along the white fine sand, I can feel the crunch of the thousands of small shells that are washed up from the Adriatic daily. The sea here is rich with razor clams, little clams called Telline, and the ugly weird looking crustaceans called Panocchia - or in local dialect called “Stracciavocc” which means rip mouth, because if you put them in your mouth facing the wrong way their tail spikes rip the sides of your mouth - but the taste is amazing so its worth the risk.

My view of the glass-like sea is only interrupted by periodic sea walls built from large black stones. On a clear day, I can see the outline of the not-so distant Croatian coast, which is only a two hour ferry ride from Pescara or Ancona.

In April all the the businesses that slumber in the winter are beginning to open their doors or prepare for the summer months. Ironically Italians, known for the creation and appreciation of so many beautiful things, are not the best at keeping things clean or aesthetically pleasing to the eye but they know that their life depends on the tourists being happy when they come to visit the beach. Now is the beginning of the spring time when the entire town seems to be in preparation mode. In groups of two or four, men are combing the sand to clear it of any debris that has accumulated there over the past 8 months. Entire families are scraping stools and depositing fresh shiny layers of paint on changing rooms and all of the playground toys are taking out of the heap in which they have been stored and being put together on the sand.

About every 300 feet you will find a different themed lido. There is the Caribbean-themed thatch roofed Aurora Lido, the ultra-chic and modern Ferretti Lido and the more traditional white-washed stucco Lido Smerelda to name a few of the dozens of privately-operated lidos that share the three miles of beachfront structures. Of course, each lido will have between 50-100 large umbrellas, called “Umbrelloni” and each will house 2-4 chairs for rent by the day, week, month, or entire summer for those who are lucky enough to live here or summer here. Every lido, like all good soccer fans, selects a color theme of distinct and bright colors to sport on its hundreds of umbrellas and chairs, most opt for stripes. A few months from now when the beach is covered, these colors are the only way to recognize which lido you are approaching.

These lidos are people’s home away from home during the summer months. This is where they will eat, rest, meet friends and the kids will play all day long on the elaborate playgrounds assembled on most of the lidos. People who select the same lido as you will be come your closest friends for the summer, but every good Rosetano will stroll down the beach stopping to visit their “extended family” at the other lidos. Since everybody has a designated umbrella we know exactly where to find them for a leisurely visit. Sometimes the venue changes and groups of people gather in ankle-deep water just chatting the day away while kids splash around them them in the bath-like water of the Adriatic.

Here, work is sporadic in the summer, at best. And, even if you are not a pensioner, stay-at-home parent, or an independent laborer, you still likely have the three hour daily lunch break and the entire month of August off so there is plenty of time for walking along the beach and socializing with your neighbors.

After a few months of assimilation here, one cannot help but recall the famous “Cheers” song, where everybody knows your name, and they’re always glad you came” because that is really the hallmark of this region since there are no big towns and people here generally tend to stay put for a life-time. Many couples have been together since they were teenagers and its not uncommon to go to a restaurant at night and be served by a former school-mate. Its almost a guarantee that you will “bump into” 10-20 people you know each and every date. If they are good friends then it is your duty to ask them for coffee - no matter how many cups you may have had prior to that moment. Thank god there is always a bar no more than 15 feet away.

Since this region is not as trendy as Tuscany which Americans are always raving about, there are several rich discoveries that are still new to me. There is no Chianti here and I have yet to see spaghetti and meatballs on the menu, although its cousin spaghetti con pallottine presents itself for certain occasions (as is called for by tradition). I have never, never seen fettucini alfredo because it simply does not exist in Italy. What I have discovered here are foods like olive all’ascolana (meat-stuffed green olives that are breaded and fried!) and great wines like Montepulciano and Trebbiano, the latter of which only grows in Abruzzo. Just about a mile from where I live in south Roseto there is a vineyard owned by an old Contessa Mazzarossa and you can bring your own bottles and fill up from the spigot for less than the equivalent of $3.00 per liter. Of course, Montepulciano can cost over $100.00 per bottle since it is a rich red, medium bodied wine with enough gusto to compete with a Pinot Noir or Cabernet. And, Trebbiano is a dry white wine that has much more body than a pinot grigio, but is nothing like the more syrupy Chardonnay that is so near and dear to America’s heart.

I can see the remanence of the old ways here which still influence the way things get done here. People get hired because they are liked and not necessarily because they are the best man for the job necessarily. There are large villas that have been owned by the same rich family since the 1700s and there are a lot of unfinished public projects for one reason or another. But once you get past the disorganization and start focusing on the life-force of this city, you realize what a treasure this lifestyle is. Life is simple, cheap and calm. There is always time to stop and say hello to a friend and there are a million people who are willing to step in and do you a favor at a moment’s notice. Without the personal back-up, nothing gets done. To find an apartment here, you must know someone who knows someone with an open apartment. You must be vouched for. But, when you forget your wallet at a cafe, without hesitation its pay me next time, even if they aren’t a friend or even an acquaintance; just being a member of the community is enough. The people here are warm and always friendly. Things get done here but in their own pace and time. My favorite saying which I hear at least a half-dozen times per day is “Piano-Piano”, which means slowly slowly or in-time. That is the way things get done here; the way money is made and the way a new life is built. Now, I actually have time to take my quiet daily stroll on the calm adriatic beach before it is teeming with residents and visitors, alike. I am now a member of this special community.